Down a thousand dollars, clutching my throbbing broken wrist, I sit in the back of a taxi evaluating the choices I made to get here.
One-Way Ticket
I had never been to Canada, nor had I ever seen a snowboard in real life. So, with both of these things in mind, I booked a one-way ticket to Whistler, a world-renowned ski village celebrated for its stunning landscapes and being the largest ski resort in North America. After hours of traveling and a manic stopover in Reykjavik, I begin to doubt my rash decision to move 4500 miles away. The final leg of the journey, a two-hour stretch of highway between Vancouver and Whistler, is where the doubt begins to melt. My glance fixes on the scenery: lakes so vast I mistake them for oceans. The surrounding mountains, so powerful and towering, the snow caps invoking my imagination of what is to come.
Whistler Blackcomb, the two mountains in Whistler, hire thousands of seasonal workers every winter. If you look closely, there’s a clear divide between who skis and who boards, and a mutual distaste for the other sport is often shared. The decision to snowboard occasionally results in eye rolls from skiers, but it’s all in good fun.
First Snowboarding Lesson
In my first lesson, I stand outside the instructor hut kitted out in my rental boots, board, and helmet. I feel every bit as timid and small as a four-year-old on their first day of school. A small group of us heads up the gondola, a cable car transport that takes us to the top of the mountain. Non-skiers can also ride up to admire the views at the top and grab a drink at the Umbrella Bar. When at the top, you can also ride the Peak 2 Peak, the world’s longest continuous lift system, for 360-degree views of the mountains and glaciers. I spend most of the four-hour lesson on the floor, and yet, as I slide my way down the beginner hill (known endearingly as the bunny hill), I feel absolutely exhilarated. Committed to the journey, I immediately go shopping for my own board.
My second lesson rolls around, the routine the same except I now have my brand-new board and boots. Catastrophe hits thirty minutes into the lesson when I mistakenly try to catch myself from falling backwards with one hand, and I am soon after escorted down to the nearest hospital by ski-patrol.
What Else Is There To Do In Whistler?
Over the next six weeks, there are several ‘POW days’ where the mountains become covered in pure, fluffy ‘powder.’ With no adrenaline coming my way from the mountain, I go searching for a caffeine fix in the local village to substitute. A good cup of coffee is not easily found in Whistler due to Canadian coffee being subpar (sorry, Canada!). So, save yourself the trouble of searching and head to either Forecast Coffee in the village for a quiet cup tucked behind the bookstore, or, if you are looking for a retro music vibe, RockIt in Creekside village.
Crowds of tourists and locals alike notoriously fill the bars in the village each night. While there is no shortage of nightlife in Whistler, the local recommendations are Tapleys for the Neighbourhood Pub feel, Amsterdam Cafe for Happy Hour Cocktails, and Crystal Lodge for karaoke on Tuesday and Thursday nights. For Crystal, be prepared to get there two hours before it starts or face being turned away at the door after queuing for an hour.
‘Pick an edge or the mountain will pick it for you.’
Cast removed, I head for the mountain once again. This time accompanied by my friend, an experienced snowboarder who has agreed to give me some pointers. He offers a piece of advice after watching me fall for the thousandth time: ‘We like to say, pick an edge or the mountain will pick it for you.’ It’s a phrase to remember when snowboarding – you have to be confident and decisive about your direction; any hesitation has its consequences.
Après?
I experience my first après-ski after a successful day of snowboarding. ‘Where are we going for après?’ is a normal question to hear up the mountain, and it essentially means ‘Where are we heading for drinks as soon as we are off the gondola?’ If you are chasing a party, The Longhorn Saloon is the place to be, and for a more relaxed location, head to Black’s Pub a few meters down. Both are facing the bottom of the mountain so you can watch others catch the last run down to the village.
Whistler undoubtedly encourages a party lifestyle, but if all you are searching for is a spot to get dinner, look no further than Sushi-Village. In the heart of the village stroll, you almost miss it as it sits above a rental store. The options are varied, sushi fresh and bursting with flavour. Try the Mango Tango Roll for a flavourful bite. Sushi village has a wide range of food available, also catering for gluten-free diners. There are zashiki-like rooms perfect for conversations where you must remove your shoes and sit on the mats around the dinner table. It’s the perfect experience to try some sake and sushi amongst good company.
Back to Boarding
As the winter progresses, so does my snowboarding. I transition from the bunny hill to the beginner slopes, and with time, energy, and a few almost-concussions, I carve my way down the most difficult ski runs on the mountain. Another generous offer to show me the ropes comes from Angus, who becomes my snowboarding partner. He often says, ‘You have to just commit; if you’re not in it a hundred percent, it won’t work out.’ I follow this advice daily, and watching him do backflips alongside my small jumps is a great motivator to keep persevering.
Despite the setbacks, the charm of Whistler and the passion shared by visitors and workers are enough to encourage anyone learning to snowboard. And after spending all day getting out of your comfort zone on the slopes, it’s reassuring to know there are so many places to unwind.
And if you do start snowboarding, remember to always pull a face when someone tells me they ski – it’s good form.
More information about Whistler Blackcomb.
Whistler Blackcomb offers 200+ trails across the two mountains varying in difficulty from Greens to Double Black Diamonds.
There are eighteen different restaurants across the mountain, all of which offer discounted food and beverages if you have an ‘Epic-Pass’ available on the Whistler Blackcomb website.
Vancouver Olympics 2010, one of the most highly regarded winter Olympics was partially held in Whistler. Visit the Olympic rings placed around the village and up the mountains.
Ski an Olympic run: Upload to Roundhouse, take the Pony Trail to Papoose, and turn onto Franz Downhill (Olympic run).
Outside of the winter season, Whistler Mountain converts the ski lifts to bike lifts and slopes to dirt tracks, opening a mountain bike park.
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