My oldest friend, Cat, and her girlfriend Josie are embarking on their long-awaited travel journey. I was delighted when they told me they would be able to stop off for a night in Sydney, and when Cat told me I could have full responsibility over the itinerary, I was categorically thrilled. They only had one non-negotiable, the iconic Sydney Opera House, and I did not plan on disappointing them. Sydney is their second stop on a year long trip, so it also has to be budget friendly.
In one of Australia’s largest cities, you can really spend a whole day in itself exploring just one of the inner city suburbs. Thirty hours is not quite enough time to see everything the Harbour city has to offer, but we are going to cover as much as we possibly can, without collapsing under the weekend’s expected 32 degree heat. All you need to follow this route is a love of public transport, and some sun cream (as Cat and Josie are due to find out).
Sydney’s public transport system is well laid out and easy to follow. You will need to tap on and off of buses, trains and ferries using a contactless debit or credit card and you can find more information regarding prices here.
Day 1: Sydney, Sights and Spiders.
Arrival & First Impressions
Post-arrival and a breezy customs check at Sydney Airport, our guests are eager to escape the heat they are already feeling. Unfortunately for Cat and Josie, they find no relief as they clamber into the back of our non-air conditioned van, accompanied by their oversized backpacks seemingly containing every single one of their belongings.
Bags delivered safely home, we head straight to our first destination – The Rocks. This suburb was the area European settlers originally destroyed and took over, and since 1788 it has had a complex history. Now, The Rocks is known as a thriving entertainment precinct, showcasing spectacular views of the Sydney Harbour as well as an abundance of eateries, historic pubs and my favourite, The Rocks Markets.
The Rocks Markets
I never knew quite how much the Australians loved their markets – nor their meat raffles for that matter – both of which they do incredibly well. So The Rocks feels like the perfect introduction to the trip. Upon arriving in The Rocks, follow a captivating trail of cobblestone paths and narrow alleyways, where the route gradually unfolds to reveal a sea of ostensibly endless tents, welcoming you in.
Every week, over 200 stalls pop up, each with its own charm and story. You’ll find everything from handmade glass animals to bespoke jewellery stalls, olives from Kangaroo Valley and an array of art stalls. Whether gift hunting, or simply treating yourself, this market is a certified must.
And just when you start to swelter in the heat, a whole other selection of food and drinks stalls await you – everything from fresh lemonade to mango sticky rice. My go-to? The paella from La Gitana, delicious and conveniently gluten-free.
A great thing about The Rocks is its prime location to the harbour. Just a five minute stroll from the markets will take you to Circular Quay, where you’ll find yourself in one of the most remarkable spots in Sydney, with a complete view of the Sydney Opera House. Unparalleled in its architecture and design, the Opera House is remarkable to see for the first time. Spend some time here, soaking in the atmosphere and taking the time to reflect on where you are – in front of one of the most recognisable buildings in the world.
Coffee, coffee, coffee.
Sydney is often regarded as one of the worlds best cities for food lovers, perhaps due to the diversity on offer, and locals will often tell you how the coffee here is the best in the world. Whilst it’s not quite espressos in Rome, I don’t disagree with the statement completely. If generally on the hunt for a coffee, look for anywhere with a sign outside saying they serve Campos coffee. If you find yourself in The Rocks looking for a sit down with a guaranteed good cup of caffeine, make sure to stop at Black and White Espresso.
The Sydney to Manly Ferry, and Fairfax Lookout.
From Circular Quay, locate the wharf and board the ferry that takes you to Manly. This is one of the most famous ferry journeys in Australia and opened nearly 170 years ago. Though in 1855 this journey would have only cost you a shilling, it now costs around $8 to take you across the seven nautical miles in 20 minutes on the fast ferry.
Have your camera ready and sit on the back right hand side of the upper deck for goosebump-inducing views of the Opera House as the journey begins. After taking a few pictures, I like to take in the rest of the journey peacefully. Breathing in the sea breeze and watching as the choppy waters cause the ferry to bob. Look back to watch as Sydney’s skyscrapers slowly disappear, and watch as the scenery transforms from concrete into green mounds of shrubs and sandstone as the ferry docks in Manly Harbour.
The ferries go between Circular Quay and Manly routinely, but you can use this timetable to plan ahead.
Once you arrive in Manly, hop on the 161 bus right outside the wharf. The scenic journey to the Fairfax Lookout takes about 15 minutes, offering glimpses of Manly’s iconic streets and coastline along the way. Once at the lookout, follow the 1km paved loop trail, which rewards you with two stunning vistas of Sydney. At the Burragula Lookout, you’ll be treated to a breathtaking view of the Sydney skyline framed by the harbour. Meanwhile, the Yiningma Lookout offers a striking contrast, with endless panoramic views of the vast ocean stretching into the horizon. Both viewpoints are absolutely worth the short trek, providing unforgettable perspectives of the city’s natural beauty.
Collins Flat Beach
No visit to Sydney is complete without visiting at least one of its beaches. Often overlooked in travel guides is my personal favourite: Collins Flat Beach. Blissfully quiet, with a concealed trail to reach it consisting of steps between great trees and thick grass. As you get closer the trees part, revealing turquoise waters tempting you further. Once you reach the beach, the serene, still waters and soft, pale sands offer the perfect setting to take in the peaceful beauty of this secluded spot.
Typically I cycle to the trail entrance, locking it and walking the length of the trail from Collins Beach road. However, what I thought would be a quick, easy walk turned into a 30-minute excursion down a steep, winding road with no path, flanked by dense bushes harboring thousands of spiders and their webs. Cat, with her injured knee, and both of our spider-averse guests, found this experience far more thrilling (and nerve-wracking) than anticipated. However authentically Australian it may have been, it was not quite the leisurely stroll I had described.
What I thought would be an easy walk from the lookout, actually took us on a 30 minute excursion, down a steep bendy road with no path, and the bushes beside us home to thousands of spiders and their homes. Cat has an injured knee, both guests are equally petrified of spiders – so this was not a great experience (however authentically Australian it was).
For an easier route, you should take the 161 bus back to Stuart St & Cove Ave, and walk the 15 minute path to Collins Flat beach. If you are feeling daring, take a detour to Manly Jump Rock for a thrilling shortcut to the beach.
If you are especially jet lagged or would rather skip the trek entirely, head to the beautiful Little Manly Beach for a quieter and equally as stunning alternative.
The Best Dinner Spot in Sydney
Take the ferry back to Circular Quay, this time sitting on the left for the best views. To ease your inevitable hunger, get yourself to O’uchi. It is the best dinner spot in Sydney at the moment and the staff are always welcoming and passionate about the quality of their meals. The food, authentically Japanese using fresh Australian ingredients and specifically the Kara-age chicken curry, simply never misses. Order some passion fruit sake for the table and unwind from the events of the day amongst some great food and company.
Day 2: Bondi and Brunch
Sunrise Swim at Bondi Beach
Unfortunately there is no time for a lie in this morning as our second day is off to an early start. Bondi beach needs no introduction, and although there are a considerable number of similarly beautiful beaches on the East Coast – it still deserves a spot on the agenda. Check the predicted time for the sunrise before you go to bed and set your alarms extra early, as catching a sunrise at Bondi is an unmissable experience.
If you take any advice from this article it should be this: make sure you watch a few episodes of Bondi Rescue the night before you visit. It will remind any first time visitors to swim between the flags, and also give you a bit of a thrill seeing the Bondi Rescue lifeguards patrolling the beach.
Feeling brand new after your morning swim, join Bondi’s bustling community of early-risers and walk to Hall Street, where you will find a selection of different brunch spots offering açai bowls, smoothies and coffees galore. Two Forks provides this and more – if you are searching for an instagrammable spot, their latte art is exceptional and on a quieter day you might even get a bear on top of your coffee.
Shopping in the City
From Bondi, take the 333 bus to St James Station and walk a short distance to the Queen Victoria Building, Affectionately known as the QVB. Originally built in 1898 as a monument to the long reigning queen, this building now houses a remarkable 150 stores, in addition to a number of premium dining experiences. Walk through the QVB and marvel at the colourfully stained-glass windows, and Romanesque architecture that gives this building its timeless charm. If you have the time and/or energy, you can explore the stores on all five floors of the building.
Next, make your way to The Strand Arcade, where designer fashion and specialty stores await. This is the perfect spot to sit back, relax, and enjoy a farewell coffee with friends while soaking in the beauty of this historic space.
Saying Sayonara to Sydney
Cat and Josie had successfully completed 30 hours in Sydney, their feet were sore and their shoulders a little red, but they were extremely satisfied with their whirlwind trip. Manly was a definite highlight, and I highly recommend it to anyone with enough time in Sydney, as it’s the perfect place to experience the balance between Sydney’s vibrant city life and its laid-back beach culture. As the girls packed their belongings back into their turtle-like backpacks, we all shared one final coffee together, soaking in the last moments of the trip.
They were ready for their next stop, and I was ready to do it all again next week.
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